Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Printing onto Fusible Web

I love raw edge applique... My favorite stitch is a satin stitch. I can make pretty much anything into a quilt using raw edge applique. My biggest time saver is printing my applique pieces onto fusible web using my computer printer. I no longer have to spend hours tracing my pieces (standing at a window using the light from outside), hoping they look something similar to what I am trying to trace. I'm able to print multiple copies so that every one of my pieces are exactly the same. 

Things you will need:

  • Fusible Web: I prefer Heat N Bond Light - but have seen it work on Steam A Seam II.
  • Inkjet Printer
  • Rotary Cutter
  • Mat
  • Acrylic Ruler 24"
  • Scotch Tape
  • One Sheet of Regular Paper

To print onto fusible web (Inkjet Only): Use a fusible web that has paper on one side; Heat n Bond Lite. Cut out paper sized sheets of fusible web, measuring 11” x 8½”. 

Heat n Bond Lite can be cut so that you get 2 sheets per width of fusible. Use a desk corner or such to flatten the papers so they do not curl up.

On a regular piece of paper, draw a small X in the corner and place it in the printer. Remember how you placed the page with the X; up or down, so you know which side of the paper your printer prints on and you will know which way to add your fusible web sheet. Test print one page (or another test page). 
Since Heat N Bond is flimsy, I stacked it with another regular piece of paper, placing the non paper side of the fusible web on the regular piece of paper. I then folded over two pieces of tape on the top edge. I fed it through the printer, inserted taped edge into the printer first. Place one (1) fusible web paper into printer tray so that when you print, it prints on the paper side of the fusible web. Print only one page at a time
Select File and Print. In the Page to Print section: type in the page number you wish to print. Select Print. Repeat steps for additional pages.

Note: if printing from a PDF, make sure the "Shrink to Fit" option is not set. Make sure "Actual Size" print option is set instead.

Friday, September 2, 2016

Arrows - Bullseye!

Ready, Aim, Fire!

I had been sewing along on my Row By Row Experience 2016 quilt, keeping in mind that I wanted to add some arrows in between my rows. I had found Carla's tutorial early on, but when it came time to start making them, they were just not what I wanted. 
Before I go any further, I would like to thank Carla over at Grace and Favour for the inspirational blog: Arrows -- A How To. Click on the link to check out her blog.

Several major differences between my arrows and Carla's:

One, I wanted my arrows to all have the same background fabric.

Two, my feather fabric was truly small scrap fabric leftover from appliquè projects, some measuring no more than 4.5" long!

Three, I wanted a narrower tip for my arrow.

**Please note, if at any time you wish to see the images larger, just click on them...**

So, to start out, there are some things you will need:
Arrow Shaft Fabric: I used Modascapes Log Cabin -Brown
Background Fabric: about 5" x WOF
Feather Scrap Fabric: 4.5"+ x 1" - cut a bunch of 1" strips, it's okay if they are longer than 4.5" (some of my strips were cut at 7/8" because is was such pretty fabric and there just wasn't enough to make a whole inch)
Arrowhead Fabric: a dark grey 2.5" x 3"

Paper piecing paper & fabric glue stick: I used paper from the Misourri Star Quilting Co, but other types of paper work just as well (phone book paper, news paper, tracing paper, receipt paper, you get the idea...) Glue stick is optional, but I don't paper piece without it.

Tri Rec Tools (ruler): not an absolute must if you're okay with the wider arrowhead. This ruler allows you to make a triangle in a square - great for many other projects and good to have because it's just cool!

There are other things that make the whole process a lot easier such as a rotary cutter, long acrylic rulers, cutting mat, sewing machine, scissors, iron, fabric marking utensil - if you don't have them, they are a must for any sewing project!!! All seams are 1/4".

To start it off, I made you this cute looking chart of what to cut: the letter references what piece goes where in the image and the number is how many pieces to cut; ie. A-2 (piece A, cut 2).

The Feathers
First, I would like to cover the feathers. They are assembled in a string block fashion.

We want to cut out Two pieces of paper that measure 1.75" x 8" (it's a little longer than what we need, but that's okay we will trim after we are done).

Lightly glue the pre cut Fabric Piece A to one end of each of the papers. Use a ruler with a 45° angle line and line it up with the edge of the paper.. Line up the edge of the ruler with the edge of the fabric and draw a line on each of the fabric pieces. You want your lines to be a mirror image of each other.

Start with the H pieces (measuring between 1" and 7/8" wide) by placing one strip of fabric - right sides together - lined up to the left of your 45° line.

Using a short stitch lenght, my machine is set at a 1.2, Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam. (A short stitch lenght makes it easier to tear paper off later)

Fold fabric over the seam and press. You could finger press, or use an iron to press, I like the crisp look the iron gives.

Take your next piece of fabric and place it - right sides together - on top of your previous piece, lined up to the edge of your previous piece. Sew 1/4" seam and fold fabric over the seam and press.

Repeat with additional strips until you have added 5 of them. If I had long strips. I left them long to trim after I sewed them on, it wasted less fabric.

When you fold the fabric over the seam, you want to make sure the edge of your fabric covers the paper. Here, I barely missed the paper, so I needed to rip out the seam and adjust my fabric before I sewed it back on.

A Note: if you're using pieces of different widths, check to see if the edge of your last piece added measures between 4" and 4.5". That way, when you add your B piece in the step below, it will fall between 3.75" and 4.25".

After you have 5 feathers sewn on, you want to sew on pre cut Fabric Piece B in the same way you attached the feathers.

Nice! Now we want to square up this mess, clean it up a bit... To do that, were going to flip it over to where the paper is facing up. Take our square ruler, line the top edge of the ruler up with the long top edge of the paper. We are also going to line up the right side of our ruler with the first feather seam line.

Use your rotary cutter and trim it up.

Rotate your piece and line up your new cuts with the 6.25" Line and the 1.75" line on the ruler.

Use your rotary cutter and trim it up. Flip it over and now you have a nice looking feather. Also notice how the seam of your first feather piece ends up right in the corner?

Repeat steps above for the second feather.

The Shaft
The arrow shaft is made using Modascaps Log Cabin fabric. The logs on the fabric happen to be about .5 inches wide and they do not run from selvage to selvage so you can make them as long as you want. If you fussy cut the fabric, you will be able to cut 1/4" on each side of a log and make a 1" strip. With this fabric, you would even be able to piece together two fabric logs to make a really long log. Keep in mind, this fabric is directional, dark on the bottom, light on top.

Sew together pieces D and E, press seam towards E. If you're piecing together two pieces of log, press the seams open so it will not be as noticeable.

Assembling the Shaft and the Feathers
Line up your feathers next to your shaft. You want piece A facing towards the tip and piece B facing away.

Sew feathers to pieces C and press seams open. Remove the paper from the feathers.

Now you want to sew the feather to the shaft. You want to press seams towards the shaft.

When attaching the second feather, you want to line up your C seams.

Make sure you sew the second seam in the opposite direction than your first seam so you do not have a bowed arrow shaft. If necessary, square up the shaft.

The Arrowhead
If you haven't already, use your Tri Tool and cut a triangle from your G fabric. Line up the 2.5" line with the bottom of your 2.5" tall strip.

With your F fabric folded in half, set your Rec Tool's 3.5" line on the bottom edge of the fabric. (yes, the top of the fabric stops short just above the 1" on the Rec Tool) Cut so that you have 2 pieces.

You know you have cut them correctly when you lay them side by side, the 2 pieces are mirrored reflections of each other.

One at a time, flip one F piece onto G and sew. You want to offset your pieces so that your seam will fall into the V created by the offset. 

Press seam towards F after each seam. Square up the arrowhead piece to measure 2.5" tall and 3.5" wide.

Attach the arrowhead to the shaft and press seam toward the arrowhead.

And just to recap, here are some drawings...

Seam Pressing Directions

And there you have it. <3 I hope you have enjoyed this little tutorial as much as I have loved making the arrows tutorial. I needed something to do, I'm waiting on more modascapes log cabin fabric in the mail!

These arrows go really well with this block too!

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Kaleidoscope Dresden

Supply list and fabric suggestions
for class at
Aunt Judy's Attic
Fussy Cutting Kaleidoscope Dresden Plates,
Instructor: Paco Rich
Technique adapted from Rhonda Woodsmall's Dresden Kaleidoscopes

***Please read through, there is a lot of information to help you pick fabrics, find the repeat and select how many yards to purchase/find in your stash. PLEASE contact me with any questions you may have or if I am not clear. Chances are, someone else has the same question! My contact info is at the bottom of this post***

Fussy Cutting vs Stack N Whack

Fussy Cutting fabric is a way to cut a specific print out of fabric. This technique is great for small projects such as table runner, hot pads and wall hangings, as this technique allows you to use less yardage. One draw back is the waste created.

Stack n Whack is a way to cut fabric so you can have multiple repeats with little waste. This method is not recommended for small projects such as a table runner, but intended for large quilts.

In class, we will be walking through, step-by-step, on how to fussy cut our fabric and piece it so that we can end up with ten repeating blades for a dresden plate. By the end of class you will have completed at least one Dresden Plate using fussy cutting technique.

Sewing Machine
Sewing Notions - thread, scissors, flat head straight pins
Cutting Mat
Rotary Cutter - with a new blade - makes life easier!
Ruler- about 6" any larger would make it awkward
Fabric marking tool - I like FriXon pens, but if you are using a dark fabric, white chalk might be better.
Fuseable web - I prefer Heat n Bond Lite (about 1 yard) OR if you are making hot pads, bring some insulbrite
Template will be provided in class

Fabric: picking fabric for the fussy cutting dresden plates is really similar to picking fabric for stack n whack. 

When picking your fabric, look for these things:

Medium to Large Print - the size of your palm or slightly larger

Contrasting Colors

Geometric shapes - lines, circles, squares...

Fabric that is often considered "busy".

Yardage and Finding the Repeat:
I can't give you an exact number of yards because all fabric has a different size of repeat.... BUT, I can tell you how to find the repeat and figure out how many yards you will need.

Finding the Repeat:
Slightly different with finding the repeat for a stack n whack, we are going to find the repeat across the width of fabric (not the selvage). We want to count ten repeats total and add 1/4 yard to that.

Open up your fabric, and find some distinctive image/print in your fabric. Here in this image below, I chose the blue flower with 2 green leaves and a smaller darker blue flower behind it. In this fabric, there are 3 repeats across the width of fabric. Moving down, there are 3 more repeats - you will need 10.
In my half yard cut, I do not have enough repeats - there are only 6 repeats - I need 10 repeats, plus 1/4 yard.

You should be able to get 5 to 7 dresden plates out of this amount.

Background Fabric:
There are a variety of ways to show off your fussy cut dresden plate: table runners, hot pads, wall hangings. Consider 1/2 yard to a yard of background fabric. It is best of this fabric is a solid or a blender fabric so it does not take away from your dresden plate. Here, I used a red blender for my background fabric.
You will also need fabric to cover the center of your dresden. For these two projects, I appliquèd an odd shape over my dresden center - a fussy cut leaf and some strawberries made out of red fabric.

What not to use for the Dresden plates:

Blender fabrics -
Fabric has large print, but when you step back and look at it, this reads as a tan fabric. There is not any high contrasting colors.
Reads as a blue solid.

Small print -
Print is too small.
Contrasting colors, but the print is too small.

Panels -
Large print, but no repeating pattern.

No repeating pattern.
Additional ideas:
If you would like to make a large quilt using the dresden plate, consider combining the stack n whack method with the fussy cutting method. You would need to purchase fabric similar to the stack n whack fabric selection, but you would need 10 repeats instead of 8.

If you're not sure if you like a certain fabric, download the camera Kaleidoscope app and audition your fabric. Click here to download the app on your Android.

Our first class was TOO much fun!


If you have any questions at all, feel free to email me: