Sunday, November 26, 2017

Rhoda's Tea Time Quilt Pattern

This pattern was inspired by my dear friend, Rhoda Forbes, who had passed away unexpectedly in the early part of the year of 2017. As a way to help mourn the loss of our friend, and more importantly, remember what a wonderful person she was, I created this pattern and hosted a Rhoda's Tea Time Swap in the the online quilting group she created: Life's A Quilt 

She was always thinking of projects to keep us busy and loved to host swaps. For Rhoda, it was a way for us group members to get to know one another, a fantastic way to learn a new skill or highlight a new pattern. Rhoda had mentioned several times how she wanted to host a Teacup Swap. She imagined it all; a large teapot surrounded by teacups. She even had an image of teacups stacked with a bird perched on the stack. 

Dedicated in Memory of Rhoda Forbes, this pattern was designed around a few of her favorite things. Her favorite colors are Purple and Pink. She loved making scrappy quilts and she loved to grow her flower garden.

All patterns are available as a digital download. Click here to purchase a printed copy of select patterns. For directions on how to print onto fusible web, visit Printing Applique.

Rhoda's Tea Time Pattern can be purchased by clicking here.

  • This pattern includes the templates needed to make three different Teacup styles, the Teapot and the Stack O Cups and Bird blocks.

After the swap, there was a call for Sugar N Cream canisters to be added. They can be purchased as an addon by clicking here.

  • This pattern includes templates needed to make the Sugar N Cream block. 

At the same time, I wanted to create a large label for the quilt top and I wanted it to read, "Rhoda's Tea Time". The words can be purchased by clicking here.

  • This pattern includes the templates needed to make the Rhoda's Tea Time words block. You could even use part; Tea Time.

As I finally had a chance to make my quilt and put together all of my teacups, all one hundred eleven  (111) of them - I felt that the addons I had made for the quilt seemed to get lost in all of my teacups. I had to really look and search for them in order to see them. I mulled over it for a few days and woke up with the idea to place my special addons onto a shelf. I drew out some wrought iron swirl shelf braces and added a two piece board to give it a 3rd dimension. 

For a short while, the Rhoda's Tea Time Shelves can be downloaded by clicking here
  • This pattern includes the templates needed to make the three different shelves and the flower/vase. 

Slapping a plain border onto the teacup quilt seemed to minimize how truly spectacular and delicate all the teacups actually are... I had figured it out! I was going to add a flower garden! 

Rhoda's Tea Time Floral Borders Pattern can be purchased by clicking here

  • This pattern includes a total of 12 pages: 6 pages of printer ready applique templates, 2 pages of quilt top and border assembly directions and 5 layout keys. 

I have included several photos below, enjoy!

Don't forget to take a minute and check out my other patterns:
They can be found at
Aunt Judy's Attic NM
under the Digital Downloads.

At any time, you can click on the photos in this post an view them larger....
Tea Time Quilt made by Bev Burmmond with Leader and Ender Piano Key Border. 
Tea Time Quilt made by Sandy Rice with a beautiful piano key border.
These two lovely Tea Time wall hanging quilts made by Renee Chester, 
check out all her cool stuff over at Renee Chester's Quilting Addiction.

Rhoda's Tea Time Quilt made by Me using Symphony Rose fabric.
Rhoda's Tea Time pattern made with 50 teacups from the swap plus 61 made by Yours Truly.
By including the shelves, it sure made the special blocks more noticeable.
Replica of my large quilt I made using 111 teacups.

Quilt made using the pattern for the Rhoda's Tea Time Floral Borders pattern.
I can't wait to see my Mom's quilt made using this layout. 
Blocks below are the special ones I have made one for each of my quilts. 

As this quilt, Rhoda's Tea Time, is my tribute to Rhoda Forbes, I was really looking to add meaning to the quilt. I liked the representation of the five petal flower, and in addition to the color purple. :) There were a couple of pages online where the color purple was mentioned to represent the empress, the queen. One of the symbolic meanings for a five petal flower:

"In the lives of women we can see five distinct phases; birth, menstruation, motherhood, menopause and death. The Empress represents the middle of this pentad; she is the nurturing mother who is the fertile and creative queen of the world. She is the down-to-earth version of the cosmic World card, which also symbolizes the creative mother in the maiden-mother-crone triad of the triple Goddess. The numbers five - related to the Empress - and three - related to the World - have always been connected to the ancient Goddess, and by extension, to woman..."

Thursday, November 16, 2017

Six Pointed Crocheted Spool Doily

Six Pointed Crocheted Spool Doily for Vintage Sewing Machines

Singer Treadle Machine made in 1924
I had always wanted one of the 'old' sewing machines, the beautiful wood cabinets always appealed to me... My grandmother has one and I watch my my mom claim it as hers once my grandmother was ready to pass it on... (My mom found a sheet of paper, wrote her name on it and stuffed it inside the cabinet.) Knowing I would not be getting my grandmother's machine, I have always been on the lookout for a old machine for me.

Still has the owner's manual, and a few of the feet
My late Mother-in-Law, Antonia Lourdes Chavez, 83 of Santa Rita, New Mexico, had talked about giving me her Mother's treadle sewing machine. She had told me how much work was needed on making it look nice. Since I was more worried about her health at the time, I didn't press much for what needed fixing, when the last time she used it was, if she used it at all... I had no idea when I getting going to get the machine but I was excited all the same. As time passed, I really do wish I could have gotten more history from her, but her health never improved.

Well, my Brother-in-Law has been cleaning out their house and finally happened upon the machine Mom wanted to give me. He said, "I've got it loaded, I'm coming over on Wednesday!" Oh! the ANTICIPATION!!! I couldn't stand it! I joined some vintage sewing machine facebook groups, I did research on how to use the machines, I showed the grainy photo to my friends, "Look it! Look it!" I was excited!

My friend was talking about what she had to do to fix her machine and she had always mentioned that she wanted a spool thread doily... What!?!? I had never heard of them! I know some machines use felt, 'old' ones used red felt, but a Doily? Well, now I had to have a doily... and why not... I needed to pass the time until my machine arrived!!!

I found a pattern online for a flower doily but it had eight rounded petals, which just didn't fit my style... I tested her pattern and made a second one using a six pointed petal - hexagonal style. Hopefully, I can share my love with others...

  • sl st - slip stitch
  • ch - chain
  • sc - single crochet
  • hdc - half double crochet
  • dc - double crochet
  • (   ) # times - repeat what is in the parentheses.

Use size 5 crochet thread, hook size: Boye U.S. 5

Start with a Magic Loop - many tutorials can be found online, important that it is adjustable.
Row 1

Row 1: 12 sc in magic loop, cinch loop, 1 sl st in first sc.

Row 2

Row 2: ch 6,  (Skip 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 3) 5 times, 1 sl st in third ch from beginning of Row 2.

Row 3

Row 3: (1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 2 ch 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) over each 3 ch loop, 1 sl st in last sl st from Row 2.

Weave ends
Row 4: behind Row 3, ch 5, (1 sl st in back dc of Row 2, ch 5) 5 times,

Row 5: (1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) over each 5 ch loop, 1 sl st in back of
sl st from Row 4.

Row 6: behind row 5, ch 7, (1 sl st in back dc of Row 4, ch 7) 5 times.

Row 7: (1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 2 ch, 5 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) over each 7 ch loop. Sl st in back first ch of Row 6 to fasten off. Weave thread tails - tighten center magic loop just enough to fit over spool peg before weaving thread tails.

Now.. to get my machine working... 

Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Printing onto Fusible Web

I love raw edge applique... My favorite stitch is a satin stitch. I can make pretty much anything into a quilt using raw edge applique. My biggest time saver is printing my applique pieces onto fusible web using my computer printer. I no longer have to spend hours tracing my pieces (standing at a window using the light from outside), hoping they look something similar to what I am trying to trace. I'm able to print multiple copies so that every one of my pieces are exactly the same. 

Things you will need:

  • Fusible Web: I prefer Heat N Bond Light - but have seen it work on Steam A Seam II.
  • Inkjet Printer
  • Rotary Cutter
  • Mat
  • Acrylic Ruler 24"
  • Scotch Tape
  • One Sheet of Regular Paper

To print onto fusible web (Inkjet Only): Use a fusible web that has paper on one side; Heat n Bond Lite. Cut out paper sized sheets of fusible web, measuring 11” x 8½”. 

Heat n Bond Lite can be cut so that you get 2 sheets per width of fusible. Use a desk corner or such to flatten the papers so they do not curl up.

On a regular piece of paper, draw a small X in the corner and place it in the printer. Remember how you placed the page with the X; up or down, so you know which side of the paper your printer prints on and you will know which way to add your fusible web sheet. Test print one page (or another test page). 
Since Heat N Bond is flimsy, I stacked it with another regular piece of paper, placing the non paper side of the fusible web on the regular piece of paper. I then folded over two pieces of tape on the top edge. I fed it through the printer, inserted taped edge into the printer first. Place one (1) fusible web paper into printer tray so that when you print, it prints on the paper side of the fusible web. Print only one page at a time
Select File and Print. In the Page to Print section: type in the page number you wish to print. Select Print. Repeat steps for additional pages.

Note: if printing from a PDF, make sure the "Shrink to Fit" option is not set. Make sure "Actual Size" print option is set instead.

Friday, September 2, 2016

Arrows - Bullseye!

Ready, Aim, Fire!

I had been sewing along on my Row By Row Experience 2016 quilt, keeping in mind that I wanted to add some arrows in between my rows. I had found Carla's tutorial early on, but when it came time to start making them, they were just not what I wanted. 
Before I go any further, I would like to thank Carla over at Grace and Favour for the inspirational blog: Arrows -- A How To. Click on the link to check out her blog.

Several major differences between my arrows and Carla's:

One, I wanted my arrows to all have the same background fabric.

Two, my feather fabric was truly small scrap fabric leftover from appliquè projects, some measuring no more than 4.5" long!

Three, I wanted a narrower tip for my arrow.

**Please note, if at any time you wish to see the images larger, just click on them...**

So, to start out, there are some things you will need:
Arrow Shaft Fabric: I used Modascapes Log Cabin -Brown
Background Fabric: about 5" x WOF
Feather Scrap Fabric: 4.5"+ x 1" - cut a bunch of 1" strips, it's okay if they are longer than 4.5" (some of my strips were cut at 7/8" because is was such pretty fabric and there just wasn't enough to make a whole inch)
Arrowhead Fabric: a dark grey 2.5" x 3"

Paper piecing paper & fabric glue stick: I used paper from the Misourri Star Quilting Co, but other types of paper work just as well (phone book paper, news paper, tracing paper, receipt paper, you get the idea...) Glue stick is optional, but I don't paper piece without it.

Tri Rec Tools (ruler): not an absolute must if you're okay with the wider arrowhead. This ruler allows you to make a triangle in a square - great for many other projects and good to have because it's just cool!

There are other things that make the whole process a lot easier such as a rotary cutter, long acrylic rulers, cutting mat, sewing machine, scissors, iron, fabric marking utensil - if you don't have them, they are a must for any sewing project!!! All seams are 1/4".

To start it off, I made you this cute looking chart of what to cut: the letter references what piece goes where in the image and the number is how many pieces to cut; ie. A-2 (piece A, cut 2).

The Feathers
First, I would like to cover the feathers. They are assembled in a string block fashion.

We want to cut out Two pieces of paper that measure 1.75" x 8" (it's a little longer than what we need, but that's okay we will trim after we are done).

Lightly glue the pre cut Fabric Piece A to one end of each of the papers. Use a ruler with a 45° angle line and line it up with the edge of the paper.. Line up the edge of the ruler with the edge of the fabric and draw a line on each of the fabric pieces. You want your lines to be a mirror image of each other.

Start with the H pieces (measuring between 1" and 7/8" wide) by placing one strip of fabric - right sides together - lined up to the left of your 45° line.

Using a short stitch lenght, my machine is set at a 1.2, Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam. (A short stitch lenght makes it easier to tear paper off later)

Fold fabric over the seam and press. You could finger press, or use an iron to press, I like the crisp look the iron gives.

Take your next piece of fabric and place it - right sides together - on top of your previous piece, lined up to the edge of your previous piece. Sew 1/4" seam and fold fabric over the seam and press.

Repeat with additional strips until you have added 5 of them. If I had long strips. I left them long to trim after I sewed them on, it wasted less fabric.

When you fold the fabric over the seam, you want to make sure the edge of your fabric covers the paper. Here, I barely missed the paper, so I needed to rip out the seam and adjust my fabric before I sewed it back on.

A Note: if you're using pieces of different widths, check to see if the edge of your last piece added measures between 4" and 4.5". That way, when you add your B piece in the step below, it will fall between 3.75" and 4.25".

After you have 5 feathers sewn on, you want to sew on pre cut Fabric Piece B in the same way you attached the feathers.

Nice! Now we want to square up this mess, clean it up a bit... To do that, were going to flip it over to where the paper is facing up. Take our square ruler, line the top edge of the ruler up with the long top edge of the paper. We are also going to line up the right side of our ruler with the first feather seam line.

Use your rotary cutter and trim it up.

Rotate your piece and line up your new cuts with the 6.25" Line and the 1.75" line on the ruler.

Use your rotary cutter and trim it up. Flip it over and now you have a nice looking feather. Also notice how the seam of your first feather piece ends up right in the corner?

Repeat steps above for the second feather.

The Shaft
The arrow shaft is made using Modascaps Log Cabin fabric. The logs on the fabric happen to be about .5 inches wide and they do not run from selvage to selvage so you can make them as long as you want. If you fussy cut the fabric, you will be able to cut 1/4" on each side of a log and make a 1" strip. With this fabric, you would even be able to piece together two fabric logs to make a really long log. Keep in mind, this fabric is directional, dark on the bottom, light on top.

Sew together pieces D and E, press seam towards E. If you're piecing together two pieces of log, press the seams open so it will not be as noticeable.

Assembling the Shaft and the Feathers
Line up your feathers next to your shaft. You want piece A facing towards the tip and piece B facing away.

Sew feathers to pieces C and press seams open. Remove the paper from the feathers.

Now you want to sew the feather to the shaft. You want to press seams towards the shaft.

When attaching the second feather, you want to line up your C seams.

Make sure you sew the second seam in the opposite direction than your first seam so you do not have a bowed arrow shaft. If necessary, square up the shaft.

The Arrowhead
If you haven't already, use your Tri Tool and cut a triangle from your G fabric. Line up the 2.5" line with the bottom of your 2.5" tall strip.

With your F fabric folded in half, set your Rec Tool's 3.5" line on the bottom edge of the fabric. (yes, the top of the fabric stops short just above the 1" on the Rec Tool) Cut so that you have 2 pieces.

You know you have cut them correctly when you lay them side by side, the 2 pieces are mirrored reflections of each other.

One at a time, flip one F piece onto G and sew. You want to offset your pieces so that your seam will fall into the V created by the offset. 

Press seam towards F after each seam. Square up the arrowhead piece to measure 2.5" tall and 3.5" wide.

Attach the arrowhead to the shaft and press seam toward the arrowhead.

And just to recap, here are some drawings...

Seam Pressing Directions

And there you have it. <3 I hope you have enjoyed this little tutorial as much as I have loved making the arrows tutorial. I needed something to do, I'm waiting on more modascapes log cabin fabric in the mail!

These arrows go really well with this block too!